The onion has been traced back as far as the Bronze Age and was worshipped by the Ancient Egyptians (and eaten by the Israelites during their bondage in Egypt). Onions were rubbed over the muscles of Roman gladiators, used to pay rent in the Middle Ages and eventually brought to the Americas, where today we fry, caramelize, pickle, grill and generally enjoy them.
Many of us burst into tears when we cut into one, too. It’s the price we pay for onion-y goodness. Here’s a play-by-play breakdown of how we go from grabbing a knife to crying like a baby:
1. When you cut into an onion, its ruptured cells release all sorts of goodies, like allinase enzymes and amino acid sulfoxides. The former breaks the latter down into sulfenic acids.
2. The sulfenic acids, unstable bunch that they are, spontaneously rearrange into thiosulfinates, which produce a pungent odor and at one time got the blame for our tears. The acids are also converted by the LF-synthase enzyme into a gas called syn-propanethial-S-oxide, also known as the Lachrymatory (crying) Factor.
3. Syn-propanethial-S-oxide moves through the air and reaches our eyes. The first part of the eye it meets, the cornea, is populated by autonomic motor fibers that lead to the lachrymal glands. When syn-propanethial-S-oxide is detected, all the fibers in the cornea start firing away and tell the lachrymal glands to wash the irritant away.
4. Our eyes automatically start blinking and producing tears, which flushes the irritant away. Of course, our reaction to burning eyes is often to rub them, which only makes things worse since our hands also have some syn-propanethial-S-oxide on them.
It only takes about 30 seconds to start crying after you make the first cut, that’s the time needed for syn-propanethial-S-oxide formation to peak.
The onion’s relatives, like green onions, shallots, leeks and garlic, also produce sulfenic acids when cut, but they generally have fewer (or no) LF-synthase enzymes and don’t produce syn-propanethial-S-oxide.
You guys owe me for this one. Since I usually go through a good deal of onions while cooking at home, I’ve been road testing some of the different methods the Internet suggests for reducing or avoiding the effects of the Lachrymatory Factor. Here’s what I tried:
Method #1: Chill or slightly freeze the onions before cutting, the idea being that this will change the chemical reactions and reduce the gas that is released.
Result: The onion from the fridge has me crying just as quickly as room temperature ones. The one that was in a freezer for 30 minutes leaves me dry eyed for a bit, but by the time I’m done dicing my eyes start to burn a little.
Method #2: Cut fast! Get the chopping over with before the gas reaches your eyes.
Result: Just hacking away at the onion, I get in the frying pan without so much as a sting in my eyes. The onion looks awful, though. Doing a proper dice, I take a little too long and start tearing up. If you don’t mind a mangled onion, this is the way to go.
Method #3: Put a slice of bread in your mouth, and cut the onion with most of the bread sticking out to “catch” the fumes.
Result: It seems the loaf of bread I have has gone stale. I stop the experiment and put bread on my shopping list.
Method #4: Chew gum while chopping. It keeps you breathing through your mouth, which keeps the fumes away from your eyes.
Result: This seems to work pretty well as long as you hold your head in the right position. Leaning towards the cutting board or looking right down at the onion puts your eyes right in the line of fire again.
Method #5: Cut the onions under running water. This prevents the gas from traveling up into the eyes.
Result: An onion in the sink is a hard onion to cut. I think Confucius said that. My leaky Brita filter is spraying me in the face and I’m terrified I’m going to cut myself, but I’m certainly not crying.
Method #6: Wear goggles.
Result: In an effort to maintain my dignity, I try my eyeglasses and sunglasses first. Neither do me any good. The ol’ chemistry lab safety glasses make me look silly, but help a little more. I imagine swim goggles would really do the trick, but I don’t have any. Any readers interested in testing this for us? We’d love it if you also sent pictures.
Method #7: Change your onion. “Tear free” onions have been developed in the UK via special breeding and in New Zealand via “gene silencing” techniques.
Result: My nearest grocery store, Whole Foods, doesn’t sell genetically modified produce or onions from England. Tonight, we eat leeks!